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PRICE ISCEMTi 





THIS MAP W^IIiIi ASSIST THE STRANGER TO FIND HIS WAY 

Bedin at f:ori»er of Essex and Washington Streets 

Tlu rod lines indicate a sihort \v;ilk hejiiniiing and ending: at the centre ot the city, which includes the most 

interestiufr and iiiii)ortant olyects, and which can be traversed in one or two hours, 

according to time spent at tlie two musenms. 

22. Sanii' as-il. 

23. At .«;) Ks.-( 

24. At ;;»; Noiti 



»« ■ Important. — See red figures mi map, thou nee 
• onespondllif; lljtures lielow. Also .see "correspondin).'- 
iiKureK in the i)ook, under tlhiHtr.'ittoDH. 



1. .\1 V.il KsHex St., lio^c.r (Jonunt cliaiter in Kssex 

liiftitiite. 

2. .\l ;« Washinirtor^St., Indian deed in City Hall. 

3. .M 71 ICssex .St., Narlionne house, verv (dil. 

4. At l:!-2 Ksscx St., (rear) Ward honse." 

5. ()I<1 I'.akery or Hathaway liou.-^e, Turner St. 

6. Atal Chai'terSt., May Ihiwer stone, in cemetery. 

7. At .'il (;hartei- St.. oldest known stom^ in city. 

8. At ."il Charter St., spetiimcn of interestini;- orna 

menl.'il stone. 

9. At •22."> 1-2 Essex St., site of first cliiireh. 

10. .\t eof. of Kssex .-md Washington Sts. (view of 

Kssex St.) 

11. IJoper Conant Monument. 

12. At 132 Essex St., the Essex Institute, line free 

museum. 

13. At 87(1 Essex St., oil itjiintini; in lihrarv. 

14. At. 51(1 Essex St., Kov'er Wiiliams or Wit<'h liou<e. 

15. .\t M Federal St., witch death warrant. 

16. At .t1 Charter St., .Indire Ilathorne's stone in <'eme- 

tery. 

17. At H4 Federal St., witch pi"i< in Courthouse (side 

entrance). 

18. At IW Essex St , oil paintin.ir iti Essex Institute. 

19. At la T.road St., Sheritf Corwin stone. 

20. Direction to r.oston St., then<-,e to ll.-inson St., aji- 

proachin;^ Gallows hill, 1-2 mile further. 

21. Oi)i.osiie 109 Wasliin^rton St., site of the Town 

house, where lirst Provincial Congress met. 



St., AtluMKcuni library. 

t., the hridjre over North river. 

25. .\t cs North St., the tablet iMarkinji site of deliance 

to British troops. 

26. Position of militiamen at Noith bridire. 

27. .At Itil Essex St., paintinir in marine museum. 

28. At 17S Derby St., Derby wharf. 

29. At l(;l Essex St., I'eabody Academy of Science 

(marine museum). 

30. Derby St , (view of Derby St.) 

31. .At -.'7 Union St., Hawthorne's birthplace. 

32. .At 132 Essex St., Hawthorne's desk, in Institute. 

33. At 10 1-2 jind 12 Herbert St., where Hawthorne 

live.l. 

34. At U Mall St., where Hawthorne wrote "The 

ScarU'I Letter". 

35. At .M Turner .St., House of Seven (Jables. 

36. At 178 Derbv St., the Custom House, associated 

witli Hawthorne's "TlieScailet Letter". 

37. -Ac 22St. I'eter St., Surveyor I'ue stone. 

38. .\t .'i3 Charter St., where Hawlhorne'si wife lived. 

39. At3(;.i Essex St., Lo V residence. 

40. At 80 Feder.-il SI , Nichols honse. 

41. At 211 Chestnut St.. Hoffman Simpson jrarilen. 

42. At WashinutoJi S(|., cor. Mall, Salem Club. 

43. Chestnut St. 

44. At .'13.') Essex St., Frank Cousins studio. 
4.'i. At 313 Essex St , Osjjood (Jarden. 

46. At 142 Federal St., Cook Oliver house. 

47. .\t IS r.road St., home of Timothy rickerin<r. 

48. At 12.S Ess<'x St., house where White munier was 

committeil. 

49. At .350 Lafayette St., State Normal School (1 mile). 



n . i . i II | . | 1 1 1 I I 1 1 1 1 'I ' ■ ! i lL i i II 1 1 II I . I I I I . I I I I I I I I 1 . 1 1 I I I I I i.|.l l-l 1 1.|.| I M | .| II I I 1 I f I ll l ll l l III l l ll l IIIII I IM M I I l-l-l 1-1 1 I i.i.i.l. i - i . i . i . i I I .I r rrri 



%^l>u^l^^.J^6U^6u^ul>^^^ 




IV hat is there to see liere? 

is the first question of the stranger 

Salem's principal points of distinction are : 

First — It is the oldest city in Massachusetts — settled only six 
years after the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth (1626).* 

Second — The terrible witchcraft craze had its storm centre 
here — (1692) . 

Third — It became a great commericial port during the eigh- 
teenth century (i 700-181 2). 

Fourth — It took an exceptionally active part in the war of the 
Revolution (i 775-1 782), and the war of 181 2. 

Fifth — Nathaniel Hawthorne was born and wrote the Scarlet 
Letter here (1804-1864). 

3ixth — There are more tine examples of Colonial Architecture 
here than are to be found in any other American City. 



*Not the city longest incorporaied, but the city lougest settled. 



FOURTH EDITION 
tOPYRIGHT, 1915. ALBERT W. DENNIS 
IBLISHED BY THE SALEM PRESS CO 
SALEM. MASSACHUSETTS. 





THE GREAT ANTIQUITY « 
OF SALEM. S 



''^^^^^^^'^^■UlJkJ.:^- >iiJii::td^'^li,j:X^»:>i^i^ <t i tJ<a tf ^jl^:ivid ra i " ■ !■ " ■ »' ■ ^ •/ ■<XAc>Ul^ALliOl 



ALKM IS \XT\ uld. It IS the oldest city in 
New England, being settled within six 
years after the arrival of the "Mayriower" 
;at Plymouth. At that time (1826) the 
whole Massachusetts coast was an undis- 
turbed wilderness, save the little settle- 
ments on Cape Cod and Cape Ann. 
The Indians had 
a village here be- 
fore the white 
men came, living 
in wigwams, and 
having cleared a 
considerable piece 
of ground, which 
they cutivated to 
corn. 

The Indians 
were a quiet and 
peaceable tribe, however, and gave welcome to 
Roger Conant and his little band when they gave 
up struggling for a living on the bleak shores of 
Cape Ann, and came to their locality, which was 
described by Conant as a fruitful neck of land, pro- 
jecting into the sea, with "grass thick and long, 
and very high, growing wildly," with strawberries 
everywhere, wild roses, brilliant and fragrant wild 
flowers, and scented herbs, raspberries, plums, 
grapes and other tempting wild friuts in profusion. 
. liven with all these advantages of nature, they 




lAt Khbcx IiiMUiit 
Cliaiitir. ;:raiiteil In tli( 



had a hard time to get along, and were many time> 
minded to remove to a new place, which they 
would have done, had it not been for the fidelity 
and perseverance of their leader. 

In a few years the arrival of Endicott in the 
ship ".Abigail" brought large accessions to their 
numbers and their supplies, and put the community 
on substantial and permanent footing. The ketch- 
ing and curing of tish for shipment to Europe be- 
came a profitable industry, and in the course of a 
few years a flood tide of immigration set in toward 
the new America that brought Salem a flourishing 
and prosperous growth in population. Ship-build- 
ing was engaged in, 
and sea commerce 
opened up with dis- 
tant ports. Young 
Salem grew wealthy, 
influential and aristo- 
cratic. During the 
next two centuries 
she was the second 
place of importance 
in New England, and 
one of the principal 
ports in the thirteen 
colonies. 
Landmarks in the 
of houses con- 
nected with that first 



(«! WashiiiKton St., in Citv Hall). The 
orisrinal deed from the IniliniiB to the wav 
early settlers, ciinveyinj; title to the luiul 




,,?r. ..,„.... * VKUY OLD HOUSES IN .SAJ.E.M. 

(71 Essex ^t.) The Narbonne house, (3^ St. reter St). Ward houBe 

tmilt hefore 16^0. huilt 1S(;4. 



AUG 27 19\F 



(Turner St.) The Hathaway house, formeilv 
known as the GUI Bakery. 



(Charter St. Cemetery. ) A bare date often expresses little to the mind. But 
George Washington cut down his father's famous cherry tree, these stones 





one can get fcn idea of the age of the oldest of these stones by recalling that when 
had already been standing there nearly as long as he has now been dead. 



>- 






■^-■^- 


j 

/ 


- 




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^^— : 


M 


^^ 



This is the oldest stone in the city that 
is now legible. "Dorothy, wife of 
Philip Cromwell. Ifi7.3." 



The only known grave stone of a pas- 
senger in "the Mayflower. Capt. More, 
who landed at Plymouth in llKU. 



One of the many ijueerly carved and 
ornamented stones to be seen in the cem- 
etery. 



century of Salem's history are naturally not many 
for building and rebuilding, to take care of the 
increased growth in population for two hun- 
dred years, has caused them to be displaced by 
less aged houses, but there are still standing a 
few old dwellings that were erected before the 
year 1700. retaining their quaint architecture and 
original timbers. In the old burying ground on 
Charter Street one can walk about among the 



(Eeeex Street). 
View of the his- 
toric main street 
which was orig- 
iially an Indian 
path througli the 
forest. First build- 
ing on the right the 
site of the first 
church. See tablet. 



heaastones that mark the graves of the pioneers of 
that early day, and in the fine museum of antiqui- 
ties at the Essex Institute, one can see specimens 
of the wigs they wore, the queer bonnets for the 
ladies, the tinder box, andirons, roasting jack or 
chafing dish with which they prepared their meals, 
the old pewter ware and blue china they ate from, 
the foot stove they took to church to keep their 
feet warm, flax wheels and quilting frames used by 



Roger Conant 

Monument 

at 

Washington Square West 

Erected in 1913 

by the 

Old Planters 

Society. 





the housewives, hour-glasses, sun-dials, flintlock 
muskets, horse pistols, and many other interesting 
things. 




John Endicott and ship Abigail, which brought him and his colony over. 

Tradition says that the main thoroughfare, Essex 
street, was originally an Indian path through the 
forest. Near the corner of Essex and Washing- 
ton Streets is the 
spot where Roger Co- 
nant erected the first 
house built in Salem, 
and near here also 
was the first meeting 
house. Historic old 
street! Along its nar- 
row and tortuous way 
in 1692, passed the 
hangman's proces- 

sions, on the way to 
Gallows Hill with the 
12 condemned "witches;" 

Essex Institute. j^^^.^^ ^^^^ passed 

the cart, with a Quaker woman tied behind, bared 
to the waist, receiving at every step a stroke from 
the sheriff's whip that brought the blood; up Wash- 
ington Street a few paces was located the whipping 
post, where all public offenders were beaten with 
the lash. Here have Generals Washington, Gage, 
Lafayette, and many other dignitaries been paraded 
as the guests of the city. 




■ ^ w^>^^<^ 



1 .1] ■ , » I.. J ■. ^ ■ ' ' ■ » ' .■' ' .•.» ' .>' ».t. '. ' »."•'. f • ' . ' '•• ' .-''••- ' •■■.•• -t 







;.-.^V;.-','.r.;i»/>^ 



;• ^ THE WITCHCRAFT CRAZE 

IN SALEM. 




-.•■^■•^:•.•.V^:.•■^•■^•.v;v:>■-^^:^.v^;^.• 




. 13 

\VitL-li.T«ft : 



THAT incident whicli has brouglit Salem 
tlie must notoriety before the world, is 
the hanging of the witches here in 1692. 
I'ack two centuries ago the reality of 
witchcraft was generally believed in 
Europe and this country (it is even today 
in rural places) and old cnirt records everywhere 
show an oc- 
casional ar- 
rest and 
conviction of 
some farm- 
er, servant 
or otiu r 
person i r 
bewitcliing 
neighbor - 
cow or hurt- 
ing his per 
son. 

But in Salem, in 1602, there occurred a regular 
epidemic of witch manifestations and accusations. 
The l)eginning of the craze is traced to a party of 
girls, in a neighborhood out in Danvers (two. 
only nine and eleven years old,) who used to 
gather together for a good time at play. There 
was an old brown-skinned servant woman 
in one of the families 
in the neighborhood, 
named Titulja who 

hailed from India who 
was skilled in some of 
the arts of conjuring for 
which the Hindoos are 
noted. With suggestions 
or teachings from this 
old woman the children 
practiced jiranks of palm- 
istry, necromancy and 
fortune-telling on each 
other, until they atained ■"''' "'"'^• 
consfleral)Ie skill. l-"inally they began to claim 
that they could not control themselves, acted 
strangely, crept under chairs and benches, made 
wild gestures and uttered strange exclamations. 
Their parents became alarmed and called in the 



15 t- 



tirt Iloiiset. Copy of the 
rraiit of Bridfiet Bishiip, 




IX St. I Tlic uitcli li 
■iiUKt of th.triiilltiiii 
prelim iiiarv triul^ 



village doctor, who pronounced them bewitched. 

They would be seized with spasms and apparently 

be afflicted with painful 

torture, and upon being 

questioned as to who it 

was that bewitched them. 

accused the old Indian 

servant and two other 

women. 
-Amidst intense public 

excitement, the three wom- 
en were arrested, tried 

and committed to prison, 

but the children kept on 

l)eing afflicted and others 

were accused. Tlie craze lu'ati 

spread like wildlire, and ""eoftiK 

tlie mischief spread hot-foot to surrounding towns. 
Topstield, Amesbury, Marblehead, 
Ipswich, Andovcr and other places. 
lic-,i.;an to suspect perscms in their 
neighborhood, and sent them to 
Salem for imprisonment and trial. 
Whether or not there were some 
persons who were really guilty 
of exerting an influence over the 
afflicted ones, something like 

what would be called hypnotic sug- 
gestion today, it is 
clear that most of the 
poor suspects were en- 
tirely innocent, and 
became \-ictims lie- 
cause of some little 
oddity of character in 
some cases, and in 
others upon the mer- 
est chance of circum- 
stance ; and when they 17 ^ 

came to trial, the \'\w. whioli the witehe^ were cliarge<l 

most flimsy and ridic- "'""-''t^'kins-'into perM,n«. 
ulous evidence was admitted against them. 

The trials took place before a court of seven 
judges appointed by the Governor for the pur- 
pose, the sessions being packed to the doors with 




( linrter St. C>i 


le- 


tiT\ 1. (irave ^t(ln 




.luW^'eHathciriie, 


tn 


ol the iii(l-e<* at 


th 


witeh irialh. 





people, and attended with most dramatic and ex- 
citing scenes. The children were brought into 
court as witnesses against the accused, and while 
testifying would be stricken with spasms and 
scream with pain at every motion the prisoner 
made. If she wrung her hands, they would say 
that they were pinched, and if she bit her lip they 
would cry that they were bitten. 

Observing that there was no possible chance 
for those who proclaimed their innocence, and 




Court scene at one of the witcli trials. (A painting at Essex Institute.) 

that old Tituba and one Deliverance Hobbs, were 
granted lenience because they confessed and ex- 
pressed sorrow for tormenting the children, other 
victims took the cue, and, in despair, confessed 
also, which became a strong factor in misguid- 
ing the judges. They had the suffering girls be- 
fore them, and an infuriated populace around them, 
inspired with a religious determination to stamp 
out the damnable business which they believed to 
be the work of the devil himself. The specta- 
tors present were beside themselves with impa- 
tience for vengeance and execution. It is related 

Two hundred years has not yet put us far enougli away from the event to get 
a perspective that sees and explains the causes of the remarkable manifestation 
recorded, with any unanimity of opinion. 

First, it is unquestionable that there are many persons today (some of them 
intelligent enough, to read and write) who believe in witchcraft now as well 
as then. 

There are those who do not believe in witches, and eliminate the theory that 
any one was bewitched, but are of the opinion that the devil caused all the hal- 
lucination, and was back of all the mischief. 

There are some who believe Minister Parris to have been the arch-demon of 
the whole affair ; say he beat his servant Tituba, till he wrung a false confession 
from her, and then took upon himself the otRce of public prosecutor, question- 
ing witnesses in such a way as to elicit answers that would enable him to vent 
his fanatical hatred and malice towards persons who had incurred liis displeasure 

Then there are some who view the whole craze as a silly and inexcusable 
delusion, and hang their heads in penitent shame for thecreduldity and folly of 
their ancestors. 

Others believe that hypnotism played a large part in the proceedings, and that 
right and superstition did the rest. 

There are others who believe that none of the theories satisfactorily explain 
the phenomena, and that though some of the things could be accounted for by 
hypnotic influence, on the whole it is much of a mystery that must be open to 
man's understanding at some time in the future. 




that one furious woman took off her shoe and 
flung it at the prisoner in court to express her 
contempt. In the mad delirium, 
every person accused was ad- 
judged guilty in advance, and 
everything was evidence. In one 
case, where a good woman had 
led such an unimpeachable life, 
and there was so little evidence 
against her, that the court pro- 
nounced a verdict of "not guilty," 
such an uproar of disapproval was 
produced that the verdict was with- 
drawn, a new return made, "guilty," 
and the woman was hung. 
Much uncanny and superstitious testimony was 
given regarding apparitions in the shape of large 
hairy things, red cats, yellow birds and agents of 
the "devil," who rode through space mounted on 
sticks. 

Fourteen women and five men were hanged, and 
hundreds were arrested and thrown into prison 
before the fury of the populace spent itself, and 
the afflicted girls became discredited by crying 
out against some persons so secure in the love 
and esteem of the community that no one would 
longer believe their accusations. 



"1 



(111 Broad St. Ceme- 
tery.) Gravestone of 
Sheriff Corwin, who 
arrested and executed 
the witclies. 




Gallows Hill, upon which the witches were liaiiged. 

The modern science of psychology is making many discoveries that have an 
mportant bearing upon the hallucinations attending the outbreak of the witch 
craze in Salem. They find that it is possible to impress upon a person of the right 
nervous temperament the belief that he sees a cat or dog, or any other object, 
by what is called hypnotic suggestion ; and that it is possible to cause a sub- 
ject to cry out with pain and imagine himself pinched or bitten, by merely 
making the mental suggestion to him. 

It was believed in the days of witchcraft that, never mind where a witch was 
he could torment a person a great distance ott' by making a rag doll or puppet 
and sticking pins into it or pricking it, in lieu of the person, and the person 
would feel the pain, which finds a surprising analogy in the discovery that it is 
possible with a sensitive hypnotic subject, to make him feel the sensation of 
acute pain in his leg or arm by pinching the leg or arm of a doll that is not 
within his sight or hearing. 

There is, further, a symptom of the mind known to physicians who are spe -ial- 
ists in nervous diseases, called auto-suggestion, in which a person inifgines 
himself tormented by others, and so strong is the hallucmation that appear- 
ances of a welt or bite actually appear on the skin. 

These psychological phenomena open up new lines of speculation (hat can 
be followed to various conclusions in regard to the afflicted girlh who were the 
cause of all the trouble, and may bring forth a new literature that will sift facts 
from superstition and clear up much of the mystery that now surrounds the 
history of the craze. 







^^N^«i«^»^Nrf'^<' 



I • ■ II _■ .'.'.-•.' • tV •'••''•'!'.'■'.'•'•'•'..'.•.-'''•'••'• ''i '-.'••' -'■ 



SALEM'S PREDOMINANCE 

/ IN THE REVOLUTION. 




T 




E Provincial Assembly was sitting here 
when it selected Samuel Adams, John 
Adams, Thomas Gushing, Robert Treat 
-==-] Paine and James Bowdoin, the first dele- 
(i^•.;.■:■-^ pates to be appointed to the Continental 
' 'iiiiii Congress, which later adopted the Dec- 
laration of Independence. 

For this action the Assembly 
was dissolved by a 
proclamation from the king's 
governor. An official came 
with the document to the as- 
sembly, but was refused entrance, 
so read it from the stairs to the 
multitude outside. This was the 
last Provincial Assembly to be 
held in Massachusetts. Two 
months later the members reas-'21 .lolin Hancock, 
sembled at Salem, elected John Hancock tem- 
porary chairman and resolved themselves into a 

Provincial Congress 
the first one among 
the American prov- 
inces. The spirit 
of resistance to 
British usurpation 
,..,,, . . , . c , that pervaded the 

Two of the dclfg»U-8 appointed at Salem , . '^ r i 

to the Continental Con(?re»«. COlonieS fOr Several 

years prior to the Revolution, was very strong 
in Salem. The town records show repeated reso- 
lutions of pro- 
test against the - 
duties imposed 
by the king's 
government. 
When the op- , 
pressive Stamp 
Act was being 
enforced, and the 
colonists were 
evading and re- 
sisting the meas- 
ure, a man who 
"told" on a . 
vessel in Salem 

BriilK'e "Vir N'ortli River 




Harbor that was trying to elude payment of du- 
ties was tarred and feathered on the Common, 
ridden in a cart through the streets with the word 
"Informer" in large letters on his back, and 
driven out of town. Later, when the colonists had 
collected powder and firearms at various points. 

r 





The Athenaeum library and one of the hooks nf the large collection that was 
captured from an Enjilish vessel, in the English channel, during the war of 
the Kehellion. bv a Salem privatwr. The autograph of I>r. Kirwan 
the distinguishetl scientist who owned the l)ouk8, appears on the fly 
leaf to some of the volumes. 

clearly seeing that an armed conflict was likely to 
ensue. General Gage sent a large detachment of 
soldiers to Salem by way of iNLirblehead to search 

for a store of 
"^ cannon known 
to be secreted 
here. Thirty or 
forty militiamen 
and a concourse 
of citizens gath- 
ered in force on 
the banks of the 
little river on 
the north side 
if the town, 
lifted the draw- 
bridge and defied 

Bridge. British Soldiers at North Bridg 



the soldier's further progress. There was a scuffle 
between the soldiers and some citizens who were 
scuttling their boats to render tliem useless to the 
British, words were bandied back and forth across 
the breach, and some of the more daring spirits, 
with the Boston massacre a fresh recollection to 
all, defied the British to fire. Finally the com- 
mander compromised with the citizens, aban- 
doned the search, returned to Marblehead, and re- 
embarked his soldiers on the ship they came in. 
This was the first organized and armed resistance 




John Derby, who com- 
manded the schooner that 
took first news of war to 
England, and put his personal serv- 
ices down on the bill of expense 
at 0. 

to British troops in the Massachusetts colony, 
and happened three months before a similar ex- 
pedition marched to Concord, and on the way met 
the minutemen on Lexington Green. 

With war openly declared, came Salem's real op- 
portunity to be of assistance in the movement for 
American independence. She was a maritime port, 
with a fine harbor, her rich merchants were owners 
of large fleets of vessels, and her citizens hardy 
seafaring men, inured to danger and hardship. 

From this port sped the fleet little vessel, "The 
Quero." which carried the first news to astonished 
England that nearly three hundred of her soldiers 
had been killed in an encounter with the farmers in 
the Massachusetts Bay Colony, outsailing the 
British vessel that had started some days before, 
as the colonial leaders were anxious to get their 
side of the story to their English friends first, for 
its political influence. 

As fast as cannon could be procured, letters of 
marque and reprisal were taken out, until nearly 
every vessel of size owned in Salem was on the 
high seas privateering against English commerce. 
The ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, 
Charleston and Savannah were closed by the Brit- 
ish, and Salem and the other small seaports near 
her became the principal source of the country's in- 
tercourse with Europe for supplies of arms and 



military stores. With intrepid daring, her priva- 
teers cruised wherever British commerce could be 
found, even in the English Channel and Irish Sea, 
capturing trading vessels and transports, and send- 
ing them home as prizes. 

This assistance to the American cause, when the 
country was in its infancy and fighting the strong- 
est sea-power in existence, can hardly be estimated. 
England's commerce was almost annihilated, ma- 
rine insurance rates were put up to figures never 
heard of before, merchants and ship-owners were 
so terrorized and annoyed by the plucky little 
American craft that swarmed her shores that they 
dared not ship goods in their own bottoms at all. 

How much influence this condition of affairs ex- 
erted on the English mind (so slow to give in) 
when they consented to talk peace at Paris, has 
never been taken much into consideration by his- 
torians, but it must necessarily have been tremen- 
dous, and how large a share Salem craft had in the 
work may be shown by the fact that over one hun- 
dred and fifty privateers were sent out from this 
port, and they captured 455 English prizes, a 








27 

number which becomes vitally significant when 
compared with the estimate that only about 700 
prizes were captured during the war by the entire 
fleet of American privateers. 

One of the prizes captured in the war forms a 
part of the Athenaeum library today, it being a large 
collection of scientific volumes captured in the Eng- 
lish Channel. 

A Salem vessel took the first news of the war to 
Europe, and a Salem vessel brought the first news 
of peace, through the signing of the treaty at Paris, 
in 1783. 

The rules governing the sale of privateer prizes, 
that the capturing crew and the owner should di- 
vide the proceeds, gave rich returns to the already 
wealthy merchants, and in the War of 1812, as 
well as" in the War of the Revolution, added largely 
to the foundations of many of the hereditary for- 
tunes that support the first families of Salem today. 







SALEM'S LEADERSHIP 

IN SEA COMMERCE. 





:S: 



il78 Derby St.) Old Derby wharf. Sketch from 
Romance and Rcalit}- of I^ew England Coast. 



*q UT Salem's crown of glory was her ship- 

Bl ping and her commerce. A time there 
I was. when in the far East, in China and 
^ Japan, in the Indies, in Sumatra and Java, 
and other far-away ports beyond the Cape 
of Good Hope, the name of Salem was 
known. New England and America were but ab- 
stract terms, but Salem was a known port. The 
ships she built and the ships she manned were pen- 
etrating every 
port of the 
world, carry- 
ing to many of 
them for the 
first time, the 
flag of a new 
and unknown 
country. 

As early as 
1629, fishing 
had become an 
established in- 
dustry, and 20 
years later Sa- 
lem was sending her exports to the West Indies 
and even across the ocean to Spain, France and 
Holland. Side by side with and resulting from 
it, came ship-building. Salem's commerce had be- 
come progressive; she needed ships, and Salem 



(161 EBse.\ St.) 
Tlie nuit-eiiin, built 
by tlie old sea-cap- 
tains to liolfl relics 
20 ■ ■ fi'S^k A broujjlit home from 

over the seas. 



ship-b'i upplied the demand. Ship yards 

crowded upon each other, and fleet after fleet of 
Salem-built as well as Salem-sent vessels of all 
kinds began to whiten the blue of the ocean. 

Ship-masters and merchants began to grow rich. 
Large houses, large even for the present day, 
began to be built. Spacious grounds surrounded 




them. Characteristic of some of them, were cu- 
polas on the roof, from which the enterprising 
merchant with his spy-glass could recognize the 
white sails of his schooner or brig, far out in the 
harbor. What they brought he would not know, 
for on the captain alone depended the nature of 
the cargo and the success of the voyage. His 
was an absolute command, and rare and princely 
fortunes were the profits on some of the cargoes 
he brought. One cargo cleared for its owner 
$100,000; another was disponed of at a profit of 
800^. The first load of pepper berries ever brought 
into the country was brought by a Salem ship, 
and for a while trade in this commodity was ex- 
clusively Salem's. 




,()ne of tlic tiadii 



With her push and enterprise, no wonder, then, 
that the business flourished and the merchants 
grew rich. Elias Hasket Derby, who died in 1799, 
left a fortune of over one miflion dollars, sup- 
posed to have been the largest private fortune 
left in this country in the i8th century. 

Of the homes of the ship-masters and merchants, 
many remain today, pointing proudly to that pros- 
perous past. Yet many of them were too costly 
or too large to be maintained by descendants of 
lesser fortunes and have been transferred to or- 
ganizations or city institutions. One fine old man- 
sion that stood in Derby Square, the magnificent 
home which Elias Hasket Derby built for him- 







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self, was too expensive to be maintained with 
its spacious grounds in the heart of a growing 
city and was actually torn down, and the site it 




Ship America, very fast and famous iu her day 

occupied given over to a town market house 
which stands in the square today. 

The architecture of these homes is interesting and 
suggestive. Built in a generous, ample style; 
broad of foundation and high as to walls; digni- 
fied; simple, yet commandmg, they are truly in- 
dicative of the characters of those early ship- 
masters, their height and breadth faithfully repre- 
senting the high broad-mindedness of these men, 
about which, like their houses, there was nothing 
superfluous or small, but all on a scale commen- 
surate with what they attempted and what they 
achieved. 

A venture to sea in those days was a hazard- 
ous undertaking. Ships were small, and there 
were neither maps nor charts to guide them. On 
every side, danger lurked. On the ocean from 
wind and current and the great number of pirate 
ships which infested every sea and made the out- 
come of ever}' trip a matter of chance and uncer- 
tainty. But the danger was not on sea alone. 
In strange ports the}' ventured, ports never before 
visited by English speaking people. What their 
welcom^e might be they could not tell. They 





A group of four of Salem's famous old ship merchants. 

might escape a pirate ship, only to be cruelly 
slaughtered by wildest savages. 

So widespread were Salem's shipping interests, 
and over so vast a territory were her ships 
scattered that when the Revolution was imminent, 




View of old Derby Street, that 
runs along the water front. 



there were over eight hundred Salem seamen 
scattered over the waters of the globe, and liable 
to capture by British men-of-war. 

The days of Salem's 
shipping are past, but if 
one would seek the scenes 
of that busy activity, a 
walk down Derby Street 
will be of interest, for 
while dingy shops and 
tenement houses crowd 
upon each other, there are 
still evidences of the old 
days in the stately man- 
sions near the Custom 
House, and in the old 
wharves which still run 
out into the harbor. Derby 
wharf, the largest, is the most interesting and pic- 
turesque. The few buildings still standing on it, 
once so necessary when its sides were lined with 
home-returned craft, are fast falling to ruin, and 
it is today a gray, melancholy, ghostly relic of the 
past. 

Of the wonderful experiences encountered, of 
the discoveries made, of the triumphs won, and 
of the treasures brought home from distant 
lands, volumes might be written. Almost every 
home in Salem has some curiously wrought piece 
of furniture, some gem of inlaid work, some bit 
of priceless embroidery or other treasure brought 
back from over the seas, while the East India 
Marine Society, founded for the very purpose of 
preserving these treasures, has a most remarkable 
collection from every country of the world, in- 
cluding gorgeous feathered apparel, earthenware 
and basketry from Bolivia and the Amazon; bows 
and arrows, tusk necklaces, clubs, and boomer- 
angs from savages of the Fiji Islands and Aus- 
tralia; queer musical instruments, coins, vases and 
dolls from Siam; exquisitely carved ivory and 
hideous great images from China; and countless 
other trinkets and objects of curiosity. 

Here, too, are portraits of the old shipmasters 
and merchants whose sagacity and courage were 
the foundations of Salem's commercial prosperity; 
models and pictures of those famous vessels 
which braved unknown waters and triumphed 
over all obstacles, thus making for Salem a name 
glorious because of the seas she conquered, the 
ports she opened to the world, and the marvel- 
ous commercial era she instituted not alone to her 
own glory but to the glory of her descendants 
and the new world which she represented. 

The coming of the railroads was an event that 
marked the decline of Salem's shipping interests. 
Such centres of railroad commerce as Boston, 
New York and Philadelphia could give so much 
better and cheaper freight facilities to incoming 
cargoes that gradually the entrances at Salem 
dropped ofY until buyers could find as good or 
better assortments of goods in other ports. 





HE event of Hawthorne's birth here in the 

Ti»year 1804, bids fair to make Salem more 
•| known to the world than all else that has 
5 occurred before or since, for the name of 

Hawthorne is growing in fame as the years 
go by, and it is already noted that two- 
thirds of the many thousands of visitors 
and sightseers that flock to the old city every sea- 
son are more interested in places and things asso- 
ciated witli him than in anything else here. 

(27 I'nion Street.) Though 
intere.^tinjr to all as his birth. 
l)la(-c, the liouse is not much 
associated with Hawthorne's 
life, because the faniilj' lived 
here only a few years after 
he was born. The house is 
now owned by a sturdy Irish 
woman and her husband, who 
keep the shutters drawn tight, and i)ermit no one to enter, 
having refused, it is said, proffered fees as liigli as $5.00. 

Hawthorne was a sailor's son, and he came from 
an ancestry of sailors, but his father died when he 
was very young, and he was taken in charge by a 
landsman, his Uncle Manning, sent to college for 
an education, and supported for ten years there- 
after, while he made discouraging attempts at 
authorship, and deliberated on a profession. 

When he was a boy, his family (mother and two 
sisters) frequently spent a season at a country 
house in Maine, where he hunted and fished and 
skated in winter, so his boyhood was not much 
different from that of many other boys. But after 
he came home from college he drifted into a life of 
solitary seclusion, that At Essex in- 
would be hard to paral- stitntf.) Desk 
lel. His mother and sis- ;'"-d I'.v iia«-- 

thorne at the 

ters were very reclusive custom House 
in their habits, each liv- ""J "P'"' 

, . , w h 1 c h li I- 

mg alone in her own probably jot- 
room; there was no tea down som.' 

f _ I 1 r •■ of the first 

family meal, no family „„tc3 tor tiu- 

circle; they rarely or seariet Letter. 32 

never went visiting, and visitors seldom came to 

them. Hawthorne fell into the same way of life, 

stayed in his chamber most of the day, and fre- 




quently had his meals ■ " :^' 'ms locked door. When 
he went out, it was usl.j. -"r dark or early in 

the morning, for a solitary ""> the seashore. 

Having lived away from Sa.- much, he had 

few acquaintances among othei . ys, and it can 
be sure that what few people w-ere aware of his 
existence did not look with favor upon such an 
"aimless idler" as he appeared to be. 




33^ 



(10^ and 1-2 Herbert St.) 
This house is most identi- 
fied with Hawthorne's life 
in Salem, for it was here 
that he lived during the 
ten years after he re- 
turned from college. He 
himself wrote, in after 
years, upon visiting the 
old room under the eaves 
he used to occupy: "Here 
I am, in my old chamber, 
where I produced those 
stupendous works of Action 

which have since Impressed 
the universe with wonderment and awe. To this 
chamber, doubtless, in all succeeding ages, pilgrims 
will come to pay their tribute or reverence; — they 
will put off their shoes at the threshold for fear of 
(lesccrating the tattered old carpets 1 'There,' they 
will exclaim, "is the very bed in which he slumbered, 
and where he was visite<l by those ethereal visions 
which he afterwards fixed forever in glowing words. 
There is the washstatid at which this exalted person- 
age cleansed himself from the stains of earth, and 
rendered his outward man a fitting exponent of the 
pure soul within. There, in its mahogany frame, is 
the dressing-glass which often reflected that noble 
brow, those hyacinthine locks, that mouth bright 
with smiles or tremulous with feeling, that flashing 
or melting eye, that — in short, every item of the 
magnanimous face of this unexampled man. There 
is the pine table, — there the old flag-bottomed chair 
on which he sat, and at which he scribbled, during 
his agonies of inspiration! There is the old chest of 
drawers in which he kept what shirts a poor author 
may be supposed to have po.«sessed! There is the 
iloset in which was deposited his threadbare suit of 
black! There is the worn-out shoe-brush with which 
this polished writer polished his boots. There is — 
but 1 believe this will be pretty much all, so here I 
close the catalogue." 



During these long, listless years, he was trying 
to make an impression as an author, but his ef- 
forts attracted no attention, and brought him no 
pecuniary reward, which discouraged him to the 
verity of gloomy despair, imtil at one time he was 



almost a subject for suicide. The hopeless despair 
of "The Devil in Manuscript," and "The Journal 
of a Solitary Man" is credited with being largely 
autobiographical, and a picture of his mood of 
mind at this time. He received heroic encourage- 
ment and cheer from his college friend Bridge, dur- 
ing this period. 

Fate and chance combined to bring him out of 
his lonely hermitage at last. The Peabodys, who 
lived almost near enough to be neighbors, got wind 
of his connection with some literary efforts that 
they had noticed, and by gentle approaches finally 
opened acquaintance with the author and his fam- 
ily. His second visit to their house brought him 
face to face with his future wife, the youngest 
daughter of the Peabody family. 



Used hj kind permiS' 
mission of Houirbton 
Mifflin Co., publish. 




llawtliorue's wife, nv<' Sopliia Peabody. 

The Peabody's influence got him a position as 
weigher and ganger in the Boston Custom House, 
and he soon left Salem not to return until several 
years later, when he came back to assume the du- 
ties of surveyor in the Salem Custom House. 

He had been spending the intervening years at 
the Boston Custom House, at Brook Farm, and 
at Concord, in "The Old Manse." A tenderly de- 
voted wife had made his married life supremely 
happy; three children had added sunshine to his 
life, and he had almost outgrown his former 
"cursed habits of solitude." 

The four years that he filled the post of sur- 
veyor of customs at Salem, were dull and irksome 
years of humdrum official duty, during which he 






(I'o Derby St.) Custom House 
where Hawthorne discovered the 
material for the Scarlet Letter. 



(St. Peter Street. 1 Gravestone 
of the actual Survevor Pue. in 
St. Peter's Church graveyard. 



(.■i;? Charter St.) This 
house, the lioiue of the 
I'eMliody.-i, must have 
liait very fond associa- 
t i 11 11 in Ilawtliorne's 
iiiiini, U'V it was here 
tliat he liist met his 
wile and where liis 
coiirtBliip i)rogres8ed. 
'riiis house also figures 
in Hawthorne's "IJoUi- 
ver Uoniance"and "Dr. 
Grimshawe's Secret." 



discontinued literary work entirely. But it was 
while at the Custom House that he discovered the 
materials for "The Scarlet Letter," and when he 
was displaced from office at the end of the term 
he at once began that great romance. It was the 
first long story he had ever attempted, and was an 
instant success, selling so rapidly that the first 
edition of five thousand copies was exhausted in 
two weeks. 

It brought him the substantial and much-needed 
pecuniary reward that his pen had heretofore failed 
to secure, and made his name imperishable in 
literature. 

But the introductory chapter to the book, in 
which he described his recent life at the Custom 
House, and the finding of the materials for the 
story, raised a perfect storm in Salem, for his de- 
scription of the characters that surrounded him 
there were so clear and unmistakable that they 
were recognizable to all the townspeople, who 
were greatly incensed at the liberty he had taken, 
and the picturesque exaggeration his imaginative 
pen had undoubtedly thrown around them. 

He moved soon after this to the Berkshire Hills, 
and never returned again to reside in Salem. His 
next literary work was "The House of the Seven 
Gables," which has its setting in Salem. At the 
time he wrote the story there were a number of old 
houses in town, with an unusual number of peaked 
gables, that could easily have suggested to his 
fancy "The House of the Seven Gables," but those 
who have hunted here for a house with exactly the 
same dimensions and architectural proportions as 
the house in the story, have been unsuccessful in 
their search, for Hawthorne's imagination was too 
creative and fanciful for him to duplicate like a 
draughtsman or copyist. It is very likely that he 
embodied in his house points gathered here and 
there from several old houses, but the house which 
unquestionably furnished the source of his inspira- 
tion for "The House of the Seven Gables," is still 
standing, and receives the enthusiastic greeting of 
thousands of Hawthorne lovers, every season. 
rt has recently been purchased by a wealthy Salem 
woman and restored, as near as possible^ to its 
original condition, with seven gables, and is open 
to the public (25 cents admission) for the benefit 
of a local settlement organization. 



■OirfMf^^^M^4Mi««ap<M<Mi^*^^^^*^<^^ 



' COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE 'J 
•.V- IN SALEM .:: 

r . vvn•v•'^^••^Vf•• ^^•:v^^^V'•■^:>r^^•^^^^■r>^l.♦A"r^>J^^^^ 



Tlie architecture of a land is said to l)e the highest 
expression of its people. Ancient Greece is chiefly 
famed for its architecture ; the pantheon and the 
Colosseum are enduring monuments to the genius of 
the proud Roman; and if Salem's character be 
judged by its architecture, we tind that it has 
another claim to fame even more distinguished than 
any other. 

Though Salem has waited for the American 20th 
century awakening in architecture for this recogni- 
tion, American architects and art magazines now- 
state that here, in this old Colonial city, there is 
to he found more of the best examples of old 




lie parallel to each other on the west side of the 
town, and Washington Square to the east, all within 
live minutes' walk from the central square. 

The visitor who sets out to see Salem "Colonial 
architecture," expecting to see wonderful ornate 

ill 

f^ii^si ,tiiiiiiiJi!:.iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiji |i!iii§;i| 

40 

(Sii F.'iliTul St. I Thf.N'ic-hdls l^m^^e. One of tlu- fiiuht M.iriiuo.h i iii- 
fiik' ami outi cif olil Colonial arcliiti-ctiire in tlii' I'liiti'd Statt•^. 

liuildings may be somewhat disappointed. A cer- 
tain spaciousness, grandeur and dignity character- 
ize them all. and they are considered in excellent 




39 (.'i'i.'i Essex St.) The Low residence. Very much admired. Showiiij; the 
"tambrel roof ", a style of architecture very popular in Salem, one or 
two centuries a^o. 

colonial architecture than in any other community 
in the United States. 

The best architecture in Salem is to be found on 
Chestnut street, Federal street, upper Essex street proportion from an architectural point of view. 
and on Washington Square. The first three streets lUit. let it be understood, it is in the details of de- 




Sonie Salem doorw.ivs. 



sign, the '"finishing touches" so to speak, that the 
Saiem houses excel — the charming doorways and ap- 
proaches ; the 
windows, the 
mantels, the 
fireplaces, the 
stairways, and 
balustrades. 

The refine- 
ment of de- 
tail and pro- 
portion which 
belong to the 
classical 
forms of the 
English Re- 
naissance, are 
found here 
faithfully re- 
produced in 
the interior 
finish to these old Salem houses, built in the period 
before and after the Revolutionary war. 




41 HotfiDnn-Simpson Ganleii, 
•26 Chestnut Street. 




42 



A good type of old Colonial house — occupied by 
The "Salein Club (Wasliinjjton Square). 



Disappointment may be felt by visitors who are 
specially interested in Colonial architecture in the 
fact that most of Salem's fine architecture is within 
the doors of her old mansions, where is cannot be 
seen without impertinent or curious intrusion. To 
those we w'ill suggest that Mr. Frank Cousins, who 
is regarded as the foremost authority on the 




43 A view of Chestnut Street, said by architectural author- 
ities to out-rank any other street in America, in its many 
examples of fine Colonial architecture. 




subject of American Colo- 
nial Architecture and who 
is responsible more than 
any one else for bringing 
Salem's Colonial architec- 
ture to the attention of the 
country, has a studio at 
his residence, 3SS Esse.x 
Street, Salem, (ne.xt to the 
Atlienaeum ) where he 
keeps always on exhibition 
and sale, a collection of 

his remarkable photographs of interiors of Salem 
Colonial houses. Visitors are welcome. 

W ^ vr 



Frank CoiiHiiifi 

Autlioritvon 

(■..loiiial Arehitectun- 



44 





ini4 EBBex St.) A glirapee into one 
of the many old faehioned Kardens 
which are the pride of many of 
Salem'e old manpione. 



(142 Federal St.) Mantel and 
fireplace in the Cook Oliver 
house. 



Miss Mary H. Northend, the authoress, living at 
12 Lynde street, also has an extensive collection of 
Salem's interior views. 



|?^>^;- 



•■' •:•.•• ' • S • ••■ ' •■ ' ••• ' • ' ■ ••• ' .•.- ' -.• •• ■ •'; ' ' ' .V •.'•'•'• ' ■■ ' -'•• ' •'• ^ 



OTHER THINGS TO SEE 





, ^"'^ ;] HERE are many other objects of interest 
V I ^ in Salem if the visitor has time at his dis- 
? A_i posal. 



._ posal. Many distinguished men have had 
■.•,■••• -"'v-i their homes here, including Governor En- 
KftWi.!. J (ij^-y^j.^ ^^-ho was the second Governor of the 
colony ; Roger Williams, who was the pioneer set- 
tler of the state of Rhode Island; Governor Brad- 
street, twice Governor of the colony; Timothy 
Pickering, who was Secretary of State in Washing- 
ton 's cabinet, 
Rufus Choate, 
the celebrated 
lawyer, Xathan- 
iel Bowditch, 
one of the most 
eminent math- 
ematicians of 
his time, Wm. 
H. Prescott, 

the historian, 
and author of '"Ferdinand and Isabella" and "Philip 
the Second ;" Jones Very, the poet whose writings 
so pleased Emerson that he had them published at 
his own expense, Alexander Graham r>ell, who con- 
ducted some of his early telephone experiments 
here. 

There are associations con- 
nected with a still larger list 
of eminent men, including 
Daniel Webster, who made 
here his famous argument in 
the White murflcJKcas^ Ralph 
wP.irD l-mclj.Q Jtamuel 

Adam^, George Washington. „o„„.. „f wi.iu- „mr,u.r. c-a.e 
General Lafayette, Henry ^p!|-i;;i"''tc..i by Daniel webs.er-B 




Timothy I'ickerinjr House. 




Clay, Governor Andrews, General Grant, Sir Wil- 
liam Pepperrell and Hugh Peters. 

The Institute, Academy of Science, State Xormal 
School and libraries, distinguish Salem as an edu- 
cational centre. Hours could be profitably spent 
at the rooms of the Essex Institute alone, or at the 
Academy of Science 
Her seaside re- 
sorts, "the willows" 
and "Baker's Is- 
land;" her proxim- 
ity to the fashion- 
able colonics at 
B e \- e r 1 \- I-" a r m s, 
Manchester, Pieach 
Bluff, Clifton, 

Marbehead Xeck 

and Swampscott. the 







liiii 4™ 


1 


^^Hpi*^H^^M|i| 


1 ^^ 



49 



State Normal School. 
ojien car rides in all directions, and the fine roads 
for driving and wheeling along the North Shore 
both ways, — all make Salem a pleasant place to visit. 
The visitor interested in these things can find 
further information regarding them in the very 
complete and thorough guide to the cit\% issued by 
the Essex Institue. 



THE SALEM PIKE 

Salem came very prominently before the world in 
June 1914 by an enormous conflagration which 
swept over and destroyed one quarter of the city. 
Of the hundreds of thousands who visited the city 
in those wild days of smouldering ruins, and mili- 
tary law, and saw thousands living in tents and 
fed by the public commissary, many will doubtless 
be glad to take a ride through the "burned district" 
and see how rapidly and ably the old city has re- 
covered from her trial. At this writing (one year 
later) over 500 houses are rebuilt or in process of 
rebuilding. From the Lynn and the Marblehead 
cars a good view can be had of the burned district. 












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